Da rifiuto a valore aggiunto: la costruzione di una filiera del tessile sostenibile e il caso della lana rustica

The article presents a particular case of sustainable innovation applied to the textile industry: the use of local rustic wool for creation of clothing. This kind of wool is now discarded with high environmental costs or exported at very low price, because it constitutes a waste of the systems of production of meat or milk. This paper shows and discusses motivations, structure, activities and first results of the National Research Council Project "Chain of sustainable textiles - Phase II", and in particular of the research group based at the CNR-CERIS of Moncalieri (Turin). This project was born with the aim of experimenting the use of local rustic wools for creation of clothing with a high intrinsic value, implementing a short chain productive process where handcrafted knowhow and innovation are aimed to improve its social and environmental impact. The aim of this paper is to analyses in particular two aspects: a) how concept of environmental, social and economic sustainability is declined, in relation to entire supply chain of textile, from breeding to creation of the garments b) possible target market, looking at both segments of critical consumption and distinctive practices in the areas of high fashion. The empirical analysis is still in progress is based on interviews with operators, focus-groups with operators and consumers and a questionnaire directed to consumers, administered during events and on-line with involvement of specific mailing lists and specialized sites.